Russell’s Reserve 2002 (2018)
Wild Turkey likes to put out commemorative releases about the Russells, and why not? Jimmy and Eddie are popular, long-serving, legendary bourbon figures. Jimmy in particular is a character, known as the “Buddha of Bourbon” and pushing 7 decades in the industry.
In the Wild Turkey mythos, there’s an important number you’ll see over and over: 101. Wild Turkey 101 (proof) is their flagship bourbon, with a newer rye bottled at the same proof. It’s a go-to daily drinker for many bloggers, podcasters, and influencers for its low price and solid quality. So, if you’re Wild Turkey and you’re thinking about when to release a special, commemorative bottling, that’s the number you’d go towards.
Enter Russell’s Reserve 2002, a 2018 release celebrating a combined 101 years for Jimmy and Eddie Russell at Wild Turkey. The entire release is only 25 barrels, all from the Camp Nelson rickhouses, coming out to just over 3,600 bottles. If that weren’t enough, it was another first for one of the ‘old boys’ of the bourbon world: Wild Turkey’s first non-chill filtered barrel proof bourbon.
Many, if not most, bourbon and rye brands in the US chill-filter their whiskies before bottling. Why? Appearance. If you have a non-chill filtered bourbon and cool it to below around 40-46 degrees, say by adding an ice cube, the liquid will start to floc. Floccing happens when the oils and fats left in after distillation come out of solution and begin to clump together, resulting in a cloudy and, in extreme cases, lumpy-looking whiskey. There’s plenty of debate as to whether flocced whiskey tastes the same or not. The mouthfeel is slightly different, but I don’t really notice a difference if I can’t see it (“it tastes the same” “if you close your eyes”). Sorry, had to - there’s a shout out for all you Rent fans.
By chill-filtering, whiskey producers chill the aged product down to the floccing temperature, filter out those extra fats, and then bottle. That way, no matter how cold you get the whiskey, it’ll stay clear. But at what cost you ask? At the cost of mouthfeel. Those fats and oils, heavier molecules that come around towards the end of the hearts and into the tails in distillation, provide a silky, coating quality to even lower-proof whiskies. It’s not that apparent when you’re used to it, but when you taste side-by-side, it’s a stark difference.
I can’t fault whiskey producers for chill-filtration, however much I might not like it. If you want your 80 proof product to stay crystal clear in a cocktail or on the rocks, that’s simply what you have to do. In case you’re wondering, by the way, the quantity of oils and fats we’re talking don’t add calories, so stick with the whiskey either way and put down the vodka.
Russell’s Reserve 2002 (2018): Specs
Classification: Bourbon
Origin: Wild Turkey Distillery
Mashbill: 75% Corn, 13% Rye, 12% Malted Barley
Proof: 114.6(57.3% ABV)
Age: 15 Years Old
Location: Kentucky
Russell’s Reserve 2002 (2018) Price: $250
Russell’s Reserve 2002 (2018) Review: Tasting Notes
*Tasted Blind*
Eye: Orange copper.
Nose: Lots of funk - might be a dusty. Bourbon for sure, though - lots of corn, cornbread, and bread crusts. Not much other grain presence. Rickhouse tour wood scents that become sweeter with air.
Palate: Good heat - lots of heat, really, right out of the gate. Tastes familiar…fruity, orange zest, that heat keeps going. Mouthfeel is effervescent, gives a hint of peanut or almond on the back palate. Stays hot, though cherries and almonds grow as the whiskey evaporates.
Finish: Pure bourbon with lots of heat. Might be a younger Jim Beam? An older Booker’s? There’s notes of oak, both creamy and woody. Becomes fruitier with air, but that heat is hard to get past. Drinks way above its proof.
Overall: I fully thought this was a 4-6 YO Bourbon, around 110 proof and possibly a Beam product. The proof was pretty close, though it drinks closer to 125-130 and stays hot throughout. This was a special release of only 25 barrels so not surprising this is a little off-profile. The flavors are quite nice, but that heat is hard to push through.
Final Rating: 5.5
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)
8 | Excellent | Exceptional (12+YO MGP Bourbon, Highland Park Single Barrels)
7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)
6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)
4 | Sub-par | Many things I’d rather have (A.D. Laws Four Grain, Compass Box “Oak Cross”)
3 | Bad | Flawed (Iron Smoke Bourbon, Balcones)
2 | Poor | Forced myself to drink it (Buckshee Bourbon and Rye)
1 | Disgusting | Drain pour (Virginia Distilling Co. Cider Cask)
More Wild Turkey Reviews
