Nikka Whisky from the Barrel

Mar 31

Let’s get the elephant in the room out first: yeah, this bottle is weird. It’s a 500ml, squat, rectangular prism, and it’s been that way since its introduction in 1985. Here’s Nikka’s explanation:

The iconic square bottle reflects its concept "a small block of whisky" and embodies the intense and rich flavors of the whisky inside.

A small block of whisky…what? and how does a square shape “[embody] the intense and rich flavors of the whisky inside”? I’ll be honest - I got nothing.

Now that the elephant is out of the way, let’s move onto the gorilla. For many whisky drinkers around the world, the words “from the barrel” have a particular connotation (read: barrel strength/proof). But let’s give Nikka the benefit of the doubt here: in 1985, barrel strength whiskies were just beginning to come to the public. For example, Booker’s was released as a public offering in the mid-to-late 80s; Wild Turkey would introduce Rare Breed in 1991. For Japanese consumers, though, the market/consumer base was still focused on lighter, lower-proof whiskies (80-90º) that were easy drinkers and suitable for highballs.

In this way, a 51.4%/92.8º (US proof) whisky in Japan in the 80s would have been mould-shattering. The concepts behind it haven’t aged well, though…the words “from the barrel” were meant to evoke how distillers and tasters smelled and tasted whisky straight from the barrel, yet the whisky itself was not barrel strength (nor is it non-chill-filtered, but one thing at a time). Nikka Whisky from the Barrel is also blended malt and grain whiskies that are further aged in another barrel after blending, so even if it were barrel proof it wouldn’t be representative of what they were trying to evoke.

Maybe I’m reading too much into a name, but it seems a poor pantomime for what this really is. The whisky inside is very good - great, even. Yet the name is a distraction and, I think, does a disservice to that whisky by creating an expectation it cannot meet. It’s not barrel strength; it’s not a single malt or a single grain; it’s not in any way unadulterated from the barrel; and it can’t be like what a distiller/taster might experience because of the blending, re-aging, and proofing down.

Call it something else: Nikka Special Release, Special Reserve, Distiller’s Edition, whatever you want. A name does have influence to a consumer, and does put an expectation in a drinker’s mind. Hopefully, if you get to try this, it’s done blind, or you read this and understand to look beyond a confusing label to what is actually a pretty good whisky behind it.

Side note: as of 2021, Nikka from the Barrel does not qualify as Japanese Whisky as defined recently by the Japan Spirits & Liqueur Maker’s Association.

Nikka Whisky from the Barrel: Specs

Classification: Whisky

Origin: Nikka

Mashbill: Undisclosed blend of malt and grain

Proof: 102.8 (51.4% ABV)

Age: NAS

Location: Japan

Nikka Whisky from the Barrel Price: Wide range: $50-$150 depending on market and availability

Official Website

Nikka Whisky from the Barrel: Tasting Notes

Eye: Dark yellow gold.

Nose: I get cooked banana from the grain and malt whiskies…sweet, no burn. Hint of smoke in the background with malty sweetness underneath.

Palate: Fruits cascade out - stone, orchard, stewed, they’re all there. Tingling smoke on the tongue lets me know there’s a touch of peat there, but it’s very subtle. Mouthfeel is a bit hot at first, syrupy/oily as it mellows.

Finish: Szechuan peppercorns numb my tongue. Smoke with a tiny fruit note.

Overall: Very complex - tons of different fruits and a backbone of wood smoke leads to more heat than I expected. Starting to cement Nikka as a favorite distillery, though!

Final Rating: 7.6

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)

8 | Excellent | Exceptional (12+YO MGP Bourbon, Highland Park Single Barrels)

7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)

6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)

4 | Sub-par | Many things I’d rather have (A.D. Laws Four Grain, Compass Box “Oak Cross”)

3 | Bad | Flawed (Iron Smoke Bourbon, Balcones)

2 | Poor | Forced myself to drink it (Buckshee Bourbon and Rye)

1 | Disgusting | Drain pour (Virginia Distilling Co. Cider Cask)