Kirin Fuji-Sanroku Whisky

Apr 6

Kirin isn’t known in the US for its spirits, but more for its beer and lighter alcohols. And yet, Kirin is one of those corporate behemoths that have a hand in more products and brands than you’d ever expect. For example, just in the US, Kirin owns Four Roses and Robert Mondavi Wines. Go outside the US and add in Coca-Cola distribution in Northeast Japan, Chilean red wines, beers in Myanmar, happoshu, tea, and coffee, not to mention its pharmaceutical division.

In terms of American whisky, Kirin also lays claim to heritage from the now-defunct Seagrams group. A once world-covering empire of its own, Seagrams was once the largest owner of alcoholic beverage lines in the world (as late as 1990, in fact). MGP in Indiana? A former Seagrams plant. Factories lining the river in Peoria, Illinois? Seagrams. Seven Crown, Crown Royal, Conoco, The TIAA building in New York? Seagrams, and at the time it was built, the most expensive skyscraper ever built.

In the 90s, however, Seagrams simply imploded. Its components were sold off to Coca-Cola, Pernod Ricard, Diageo, and a handful of others. The Four Roses brand eventually made its way to Kirin’s portfolio in 2002 - I strongly recommend Al Young’s history of Four Roses to read about how he, Jim Rutledge, and their new Kirin bosses remade Four Roses into the juggernaut it is today. And if you like American whiskey and don’t know who Al Young was, go look him up first!

Anyways - Kirin wasn’t new to the whisky industry upon acquiring Four Roses. They had been distilling since 1973 at the Fuji Gotemba Distillery at the foot of Mt. Fuji. Ironically, the original distillery was built with backing from Seagrams, with less ironic backing from Chivas Brothers and Kirin Brewery. Whiskies from the Fuji Gotemba Distillery are, again, more proliferous than you’d expect. Plus, the distillery itself is massive - Scotland and MGP-level massive - producing up to 12 million LPA of single malt and grain whisky. The grain and barley is imported from Ireland and Scotland, as it is still more economical to import at that scale than to buy native Japanese grains.

Kirin Fuji-Sanroku was introduced in 2016 as a NAS, NCF Japanese Whisky at a relatively high 50% ABV/100º. Kirin leans hard into their water source as part of the story - and since their source is snowmelt from Mt. Fuji, why wouldn’t they! - even to the name: Fuji-Sanroku translates to “at the feet of Fuji”. I have to admit, I didn’t know what to expect, but I was really pleasantly surprised by this. It’s an entry-level blend, but a good one, with a solid mouthfeel to back up classic Japanese whisky flavors.

Side note: as of 2021, Kirin Fuji-Sanroku still qualifies as Japanese Whisky as defined recently by the Japan Spirits & Liqueur Maker’s Association.

Kirin Fuji-Sanroku whisky: Specs

Classification: Blended Japanese Whisky

Origin: Fuji-Gotemba Distillery

Mashbill: Blended Grain and Malt

Proof: 100 (50% ABV)

Age: NAS

Location: Japan

Kirin Fuji Sanroku Price: $50

No Official Website

Kirin Fuji-Sanroku whisky Review: Tasting Notes

Eye: Pure yellow gold.

Nose: Sparkling berries, strong oak spice, deep and ripe red fruits. A heavier nose than I expected - more grain, perhaps?

Palate: The proof shows itself, but behind it is a wonderful malty richness. Wine sweetness counters the bracing acidity from the berries while the malt richness mellows the whole thing before the grain whisky washes over the palate. Mouthfeel is coating and medium-to-full.

Finish: Dry, medium-length, and moderately sweet.

Overall: The nose is the best part, but the palate and finish don’t disappoint at all. Great mouthfeel for sure.

Final Rating: 7.0

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)

8 | Excellent | Exceptional (12+YO MGP Bourbon, Highland Park Single Barrels)

7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)

6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)

4 | Sub-par | Many things I’d rather have (A.D. Laws Four Grain, Compass Box “Oak Cross”)

3 | Bad | Flawed (Iron Smoke Bourbon, Balcones)

2 | Poor | Forced myself to drink it (Buckshee Bourbon and Rye)