Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky

Mar 30

Like the Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky posted yesterday, this is made on Coffey stills imported by Masataka Taketsuru in the 60s at Nikka’s Yoichi Distillery.

Unlike the Coffey Grain Whisky, the Coffey Malt is made from 100% malted barley. Here’s the kicker, though - based on the new regulations around Japanese Whisky, the Coffey Malt does not qualify as a Japanese Whisky while the Coffey Grain does…what?

Here’s why: I’ve written elsewhere how Scottish distillers have, throughout their history, traded stocks of whiskies for blending and other purposes. Japanese whisky-makers have had the reverse tradition, keeping all production within the single company (though multiple distilleries may exist, such as Yamazaki and Hakushu for Suntory or Yoichi and Miyagikyo for Nikka). Before these new regulations were implemented, however, nothing was stopping Japanese whisky producers from importing the grain, the barley, the distillate, or even fully aged whisky from elsewhere - especially Scotland - and labeling it as Japanese whisky. No longer.

So why does the Coffey Malt not qualify? Nikka also happens to own Scotland’s Ben Nevis Distillery, and while current batches of Coffey Malt are fully distilled and aged in Japan, earlier batches had some Ben Nevis distillate. It’s not clear to me if/when that prohibition will run out - my guess is that because Coffey Malt with Ben Nevis distillate is still in the market, Nikka can’t legally call it a Japanese whisky, but it’s not clear when that stock will run out nor whose decision it is to make that call.

As with the Japanese whisky industry on the whole, the regulations were designed with their Scottish heritage in mind. Equally true is that, as with all things Japanese, they decided to make incremental improvements and tweaks. As the regulations continue to be adjusted over time, perhaps this will qualify as a Japanese whisky once again. For now, though, c’est la vie!

Side note: as of 2021, Nikka Coffey Malt does not qualify as Japanese Whisky as defined recently by the Japan Spirits & Liqueur Maker’s Association.

Nikka Coffey Malt: Specs

Classification: Malt Whisky

Origin: Nikka’s Yoichi Distillery

Mashbill: 100% Malted Barley (Source undisclosed)

Proof: 90 (45% ABV)

Age: NAS

Location: Japan

Nikka Coffey Malt Price: $80

Official Website

Nikka Coffey Malt: Tasting Notes

Eye: Strong yellow. Thin rims and droplet legs.

Nose: Chocolate - more milk than dark. Some banana notes, oak spice on the throat.

Palate: Wow - chocolate bomb. Chocolate-covered cherries explode across my palate. This is so smooth! Some banana bread reminiscent of the Coffey Grain, making me think it has more to do with the still than the inputs. Delicious. Mouthfeel is slightly astringent but very coating, medium-bodied.

Finish: Long, full-on chocolate chip banana bread.

Overall: Just like the Coffey Grain, this is an incredibly easy sipper. I might like this even a bit more than the Coffey Grain, though I couldn’t point to what the differentiator is. Such a chocolate bomb, though.

Final Rating: 8.3

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)

8 | Excellent | Exceptional (12+YO MGP Bourbon, Highland Park Single Barrels)

7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)

6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)

4 | Sub-par | Many things I’d rather have (A.D. Laws Four Grain, Compass Box “Oak Cross”)

3 | Bad | Flawed (Iron Smoke Bourbon, Balcones)

2 | Poor | Forced myself to drink it (Buckshee Bourbon and Rye)

1 | Disgusting | Drain pour (Virginia Distilling Co. Cider Cask)