After a few years of tasting Irish whiskies from the giants (Jameson, Redbreast, Bushmills) to the new guys (Sliabh Liag, Clonakilty, Dingle) and everything in between I can get my hands on, I can confidently say that there are a few things that will make me love an Irish whiskey:

light, fruity character
citrus-forward, particularly sweet lemon and grapefruit
malty with some grassy undertones

With some exceptions, such as loving a little more spice that comes with single pot still expressions, this is a pretty accurate description of what I want from an Irish whiskey.

There are some inherent risks, though. With a lighter profile comes a risk that the maturation or finishing casks could overtake the whiskey itself. Some products, like the Redbreast 27- and 32-year editions, are powerful enough in and of themselves to stand up to strong finishes like port and sweet sherry. The majority are not as fortunate, and only the most skilled producers can strike that balance.

When it comes to experts on modern Irish Whiskey, few can top Brian Nation in experience or knowledge. When O’Shaughnessey Distillery (aka Keeper’s Heart) “stole” him from Midleton, anyone watching could see something great was going to happen at the intersection of Irish and American whiskey.

You can find more information about the distillery and their other products in my review of Keeper’s Heart Irish + American, so I’ll skip the basics and get right down to this release.

Sweet wine - again, when used right - is the perfect foil for Irish whiskey. Decadent, rich, and fruity, it accentuates the inherent notes of the Irish whiskey while adding extra texture and body. Malaga wine, a Spanish fortified wine named for the eponymous city in which it is made, comes from Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel grapes that are sun-dried and then aged for at least two years after being made into wine. PX and Moscatel are already some of the sweetest grapes out there; sun-drying them concentrates the sugars even further, driving the flavor to 11.

While perhaps not as famous as its sherry cousins or other fortified wines like Marsala or Madeira, Malaga deserves more attention as a potential finishing cask for whiskies. It is sweet, no doubt, but there is a depth to it even at a relatively young age that belies whatever number is on the bottle. There’s also the unfamiliar factor - Scotch and Irish whiskey drinkers know what a sherry finish might be and, to a lesser extent, a fortified wine or cognac finish. But Malaga? Just a quick search will show you how few times this has been used in any recent releases.

For Keeper’s Heart, add in the fact that you’re getting a 10 year old whiskey further finished in a rarer white wine cask, and this is well worth the ~$75 price tag. The body from the Malaga and the ex-bourbon casks will make you question whether this is really 86 proof.

Thank you to Keeper’s Heart for providing this sample free of charge. All opinions are my own.

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Keeper’s Heart 10 Year Old Irish Single Malt Finished in Malaga Wine Casks: Specs

Classification: Irish Whiskey

Producer: Keeper’s Heart Whiskey

Mashbill: 100% Malted Barley

Proof: 86 (43% ABV)

Age: 10 Years Old

Location: Ireland, Finished in US

Keeper’s Heart 10 Year Old Irish Single Malt Finished in Malaga Wine Casks Price: $74.99

Official Website

Keeper’s Heart 10 Year Old Irish Single Malt Finished in Malaga Wine Casks: Tasting Notes

Eye: Green tea with honey. Very thin rims and a few thin legs around the edges.

Nose: Golden raisins made into wine, yellow-fleshed fruits and a light buttery undertone from the whiskey. Freshly made lemon curd, tart but also sugary and creamy. Kedem white grape juice.

Palate: Light, very Irish-creamy yuzu, a touch of honey and ginger around the edges. Mild astringency emerges, like oversteeped tea, not distracting and well controlled for 10 years in even a used cask. Mouthfeel is creamy, coating, spice on the tip of my tongue, pooling in the mid-palate with sweet white wine. Moderate body, especially for 86 proof.

Finish: Takes a bitter edge, the lemon’s pith and some more oak than on the nose or palate. Gives a new texture over the whole tongue, mouthwatering as the sweetness rolls back in. Medium long length.

Overall: Quite well-balanced. The whiskey is Irish to the core with my favorite lemon custard notes. Oak grows a bit too strong on the finish, but it doesn’t last too long. Malaga is used to great effect, a controlled sweetness that elevates without ever blowing the whiskey out.

Final Rating: 7.5

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary

8 | Excellent | Exceptional

7 | Great | Well above average

6 | Very Good | Better than average

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary

4 | Has promise but needs work

1-3 | Let’s have a conversation