Like Barrel 14 “Theobold”, Bhakta 50 Barrel 16 takes its name from a national leader with a connection to spirits. Unlike “Theobold”, “Ulysses” is a figure more familiar to us in the US (and, let’s be honest, more familiar to most): Ulysses S. Grant, 18th President.

Grant’s presidency has a notable connection to Bhakta 50: Grant was elected president in 1868, the year of the oldest distillate in these barrels (though he did not take office until 1869). Grant was also a notorious imbiber, remembered for being a middling president and an inept administrator. His tenure also included the Whiskey Ring Scandal, a St. Louis-based scheme in which tax revenues were skimmed and kicked back to whiskey producers, government officials, and everyone in between.

It’s easy to write this off as a minor inconvenience in today’s governmental budget, but keep in mind this: before the personal income tax was implemented via the 16th Amendment, sometimes half or more of government revenues came via excise taxes on distilled liquor. With this historical context, events such as the Whiskey Ring Scandal - just as the Whiskey Rebellion had nearly a century earlier - gain that much more significance. The Scandal permanently tainted an already forgettable presidency and, while Grant was never directly implicated in the plot, his laissez-faire governing style is often cited as permitting the Scandal to happen in the absence of an interested leader. If a Scandal involving your government’s largest revenue source isn’t enough to get your attention, what is?

But anyway - this is a post about brandy/armagnac. If you want more information on the full Bhakta 50 line, take a look at my post on Barrel 14 “Theobold”.

It’s impossible not to compare these two barrels side by side. Theobold earned an excellent 7.8, and was wonderfully complex. And yet, I must say, Ulysses is even better. Though only slightly higher in proof and with comparable vintages to Theobold, Ulysses is smokier, more varied in its dried fruit and vinous notes, and more balanced on the finish. Each on its own is a desirable pour, and with only 0.2 points separating their final scores, you might wonder how they could be that close if I thought the Ulysses was that much better. Here’s why.

Theobold is an excellent blend of armagnacs and carries each flavor from the brandy forward from nose to finish. What it’s missing comes down to the Islay finish. I’m not the biggest fan of Islay generally speaking (though if you’ve read recent reviews, you know it’s growing on me), but it works surprisingly well with aged brandies. The smokiness and slightly salty, meaty characteristics emphasize the dark fruit in the way a lamb chop with a dark sauce or duck breast with cherry elevates both to a better whole. Ulysses allows more Islay flavor to permeate the experience than Theobold does, ratcheting up the complexity to another level.

It is to the Theobold’s credit that it is as close in score as it is to Ulysses, and a reflection on how two different barrels given the same treatment can vary in final profile. If you’re someone who loves aged brandies with a touch of smoke, the Theobold will undoubtedly garner your support. If you want more explicit Islay finishing, Ulysses will be your jam. It’s that simple. The slight difference in proof is probably less important than it seems.

Either way, you can’t go wrong here. Trust me, if I’m tasting a bottle I likely can’t afford, despite my best efforts I will probably have some expectation to it that I wouldn’t for a bottle I can grab off the shelf, even an allocated one. So, when I tell you that money aside I would gladly take one or more of each, take me at my word and go grab one before others find out.

Thank you to Bhakta Spirits for providing a sample free of obligation. Full editorial control remains with me.

Bhakta 50 Barrel 16 “Ulysses” Brandy Specs

Classification: Brandy

Origin: Maison Ryst-Dupeyron, Blended and Finished at Bhakta Farms

Mashbill: 100% Armagnac-Designated Grapes

Proof: 92.6 (46.3% ABV)

Age: 50 to 152 Years Old (Vintages: 1868, 1897, 1934, 1946, 1960, 1963, 1964, 1970)

Appellation: Armagnac

Location: France

Bhakta 50 Barrel 16 “Ulysses” Brandy Price: $399

Official Website

Bhakta 50 Barrel 16 “Ulysses” Brandy Review: Tasting Notes

Eye: Dark brown/mahogany. No rims, tons of droplets all over the glass.

Nose: Smokier than Theobold right off the bat, dark baking cocoa and burnt edges of raisin challah. Oak pepper, raisins, sultanas, and medjool dates. Hints of proof, but only a little to tingle the nostrils.

Palate: Astringency and dark fruit open immediately and quickly smooth out to dark/semisweet chocolate. The Islay is muted, but definitely there. Mouthfeel is syrupy but not sickly sweet, peppery on the tip of my tongue. Oak turns to heat as the Islay opens up beautifully, especially on the swallow with sweet meat smoke taking center stage.

Finish: Finish is gentle and subtle, with Islay present but not dominant. Embers and a touch of brine. Long, coating, and chocolatey.

Overall: More balanced than Theobold, in the sense that the Islay is present without dominating. Each like an isomer of the same flavor profile. Excellent.

Final Rating: 8.0

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Old Label Batch 4 or 2, Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)

8 | Excellent | Exceptional (Stagg Jr. Batch 10, Highland Park Single Barrels)

7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)

6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)

4 | Sub-par | Many things I’d rather have (A.D. Laws Four Grain, Compass Box “Oak Cross”)

3 | Bad | Flawed (Iron Smoke Bourbon, Balcones)

2 | Poor | Forced myself to drink it (Buckshee Bourbon and Rye)

1 | Disgusting | Drain pour (Virginia Distilling Co. Cider Cask)