Theobold of Navarre (1201-1253) is an intriguing figure for a recovering medievalist like I. A key figure in the early 13th century crusades, Theobold was the son of Theobold III of Champagne (in modern France) and Blanche of Navarre (in modern Spain). In addition to his ruling status, Theobold was a lyricist and poet, interspersing these between starting the Baron’s Crusade and introducing French rule to Navarre.

Theobold was a second-tier figures of the Crusades era, below the likes of Frederick Barbarossa, Richard III, the various popes, and leaders of the Kingdom of Jerusalem. For French cultural history, however, Theobold is perhaps the key figure in one of France’s most well-known wines: champagne. As ruler of the Champagne region, Theobold planted the seeds - pun intended - of the region’s eponymous vintner culture, beginning its elevation to the highest statuses of the wine world. Eight centuries later, Champagne is still the go-to for celebrations, special occasions, toasts, and otherwise connotes a sophistication other types cannot match.

It is from this heritage that barrel 14 of Bhakta Spirits’ Bhakta 50 series comes. This series, chosen from Maison Ryst-Dupeyron armagnac barrels, contains distillate from as early as 1868 and as late as 1970. Each of the 38 barrels eventually to be released contain approximately 8-10 vintages, and each are finished in Islay whisky casks for a smoky finish that manifests differently in each batch (at least of the three I’ve tried so far!).

Barrel 14 - Theobold - is a 358-bottle release containing 8 vintages from 1868, 1897, 1939, 1946, 1956, 1963, 1965, and 1970. The blend is simply delicious, but that’s where the simplicity ends. From nose to finish, complexity is the name of the game. The Islay finishing holds back on the nose before rushing the palate and rounding out the finish. Dark, raisiny sweetness and depth suffuse the palate. I find it fitting that an unmistakable effervescence flows through the palate - after all, what better way to pay homage to champagne and its progenitor, as Bhakta Spirits puts it, than to have a mouthfeel that gives a mildly bubbly, ethereal sensation.

As I mentioned, there will only be 38 barrels/batches of the Bhakta 50 series, and as they climb in number, so will the price. Currently, the Theobald batch sits at $399. While many will balk at the price prima facie, I want you, the reader, to consider these factors:

As far as we know, these barrels are unique for their age, variety, and the finishing. I don’t know of another brandy of any appellation containing 100+-year-old distillate on the market, and only a few with 50-year-old at specialty shops worldwide.
At around $8 per year based on the youngest vintage, it’s well within range of the premium Scotch whisky market, where bottlings are regularly priced at $10 per year to start. Bourbons and American whiskies in general? Forget it.
The bottle design is beautiful and makes a statement, with an art deco styling and minimalist glass structure that hides as little of the liquid inside as possible. I know this is less important for some, but if you’re buying a $400 bottle, let’s be honest, you want it to look good. Side note: the sell sheets for these bottles place the art deco bottle at the apse of a French-style gothic church with vaulted ceilings and a long aisle, stylized into the art deco form. Again - details like this don’t matter to everyone, but I find it remarkable and impressive.
While labeled a “brandy” for TTB purposes, this is truly an armagnac. The added Islay finishing is the broken cog that complicates the labeling process since even a drop of whisky in a brandy compromises its status in the TTB’s and others’ eyes.

So there’s the scoop. I’ll also be posting my notes on Batch 16 “Ulysses” and other Bhakta Spirits products I’m fortunate enough to taste. Again, full editorial control is mine, and if I didn’t like something I’d say it - but I haven’t had that problem from Bhakta yet.

Thank you to Bhakta Spirits for providing a sample free of obligation. Full editorial control remains with me.

Bhakta 50 Barrel 14 “Theobold” Brandy: Specs

Classification: Brandy

Origin: Maison Ryst-Dupeyron, Blended and Finished at Bhakta Farms

Mashbill: 100% Armagnac-Designated Grapes

Proof: 87.2 (43.6% ABV)

Age: 50 to 152 Years Old

Appellation: Armagnac

Location: France

Bhakta 50 Barrel 14 “Theobold” Brandy Price: $399

Official Website

Bhakta 50 Barrel 14 “Theobold” Brandy Review: Tasting Notes

Eye: Dark amber. Medium rims and thick, syrupy drops.

Nose: Raisin essence, dark and sweet. Graham crackers emerge but this is an armagnac attack all the way. Barest hint of barrel char and smoke with some astringent oak. No hint of the Islay finish on the nose.

Palate: Deep, classic armagnac in every sense, though the depth is tempered by an effervescent feeling. Unsweetened cocoa and old cinnamon. Mouthfeel is lighter than expected, silky, no coating, but there’s heavier sensations brought out in the chew. Peppery spice on the whole palate, with Islay coming out in full force with a little air.

Finish: Suddenly, the Islay influence floods the palate and nose. Smoky, a touch medicinal, and drying. Long and cocoa-heavy, too.

Overall: I’ll admit to expecting a heavier mouthfeel, but the heft grows with a chew and even more so after the finish. There is significant complexity here, evolving on each sip.

Final Rating: 7.8

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Old Label Batch 4 or 2, Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)

8 | Excellent | Exceptional (Stagg Jr. Batch 10, Highland Park Single Barrels)

7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)

6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)

4 | Sub-par | Many things I’d rather have (A.D. Laws Four Grain, Compass Box “Oak Cross”)

3 | Bad | Flawed (Iron Smoke Bourbon, Balcones)

2 | Poor | Forced myself to drink it (Buckshee Bourbon and Rye)

1 | Disgusting | Drain pour (Virginia Distilling Co. Cider Cask)