Whiskey Del Bac Dorado American Single Malt Whiskey
My review of Whiskey Del Bac’s Classic American Single Malt Whiskey went deep into the intricacies of non-GN barley, aging in ASM in Arizona’s Sedona Desert, and how Whiskey Del Bac isn’t afraid to change things up to create the product they want.
The Whiskey Del Bac Dorado builds on the Classic’s unique profile, adding in mesquite wood and a mild smoke. It’s impossible not to compare it to Santa Fe Spirits’ mesquite-smoked single malts - at first, for sure - but this really deserves consideration on its own merits. The mesquite puts it in the American Southwest, but the smoke level and way in which the smoke is used is closer to a Johnnie Walker Black or lightly-smoked Bruichladdich.
When barley is smoked with peat, wood, or another substance, the heat kilns the barley and stops the germination that malting started, freezing the enzymes and sugars in place until they are reactivated during mashing and fermentation. With malt, the grain structure is such that the phenols (i.e. the smoky components) adsorb to the grain’s husk, attaching to the outside “shell” of the grain.
As the heat slowly reduces moisture levels in and on the surface of the grain from around 45-50% down to 5-10%, the temperature is slowly increased as well. The balance is to not reach a high temperature too quickly or you’ll denature the enzymes rather than pause them. Throughout that process, though, surface moisture is lost first, allowing the phenols from the smoke to bind to the barley husk. This process is different for corn, rye, and many other grains where smoking them requires alternative methods.
Whiskey-makers who include peating or smoking as part of their process measure phenols by ppm - phenol parts per million - and as far as I know always measure prior to distillation (more on that later). ACcording to Head Blender Mark Vierthaler, Whiskey Del Bac used to send “ our product to Hartwick College Center for Craft Food & Beverage to get levels of phenol, guaiacol, m/o-cresol, o-cresol, and 4-vinyl-guaiacol.” These compounds, in order, generally taste of smoke, black pepper, tar/burning/ash (for both cresols), and vanilla or clove.
Brands like Octomore promote their ppms as part of their allure, the thing that sets them apart. The thought is simple: higher ppms = more smoke and peatiness. In reality, though, its far from that simple. Two malts measured at 40ppm prior to distillation can have widely differing perceived smokiness. The type of peat, style of malt, type and size of cask, distillation on pot or column or hybrid still, age, and more can all affect the perceived peatiness of the final product.
For example, Blackadder’s Raw Cask Peat Reek advertises itself at 20ppm. Between the label and the name, it might scare some people away, but in reality it’s a solidly though not overly peated whiskey. Smokier than a Johnnie Walker Double Black, less so than a Laphroaig. Highland Park’s heather-based peat might measure the same ppms but it will be far less punch-you-in-the-face. Smaller casks will concentrate the phenols and guaiacols, but also break some down. As whiskies age, the phenols dissipate, so a 25- or 30-year product produced the same way as a 10- or 18-year-old whiskey won’t be as smoky.
Quick note: I’m using smoke and peat interchangeably here, but they are much more distinct in practice. Smoke smells and tastes smoky, but mesquite smoke and cherrywood smoke are obviously different. Peat can be smoky, but it can also be vegetal, salty, earthy, iodinated, heather-y, all dependent on its source. I’m still working on that peat exploration course.
Whiskey Del Bac did, for a time, formally measure these compounds. Today, however, they go on the most trustworthy measurement tool available: their palates. They taste batch-by-batch to ensure consistency to the Dorado profile. It’s a mild ppm by either standard - their most recent batch only hit 5ppm. But it’s enough to notice, and enough to get others to pay attention.
One “other” who paid attention was American Mash & Grain. Run by Devin and Chase, their recently released Borrowed Page Volume 1 blended whiskies from Watershed Distillery, Spirits of French Lick, Wigle Whiskey, and finally some Dorado from Whiskey Del Bac. American Mash & Grain’s episode goes live on Wednesday, October 26th. Another is Lost Lantern, who has released several single barrel offerings (Adam and Nora joined the Whiskey Ring Podcast on episode 53).
Overall, I think the Dorado is slightly less successful than the Whiskey Del Bac Classic. The Classic showcased the distillery’s house character, and I find that character muted in the Dorado. I’d love the stonefruit-heavy profile to be at full strength, going toe-to-toe with the mesquited malt, but it weakens enough to detract from the experience. This is still quite good, but I’ll reach for a bottle of the Classic first.
Whiskey Del Bac Dorado American Single Malt Whiskey: Specs
Classification: American Single Malt Whiskey
Origin: Whiskey Del Bac Distillery
Mashbill: 100% Malted Barley
Proof: 92 (46% ABV)
Age: NAS
Location: Arizona
Whiskey Del Bac Dorado American Single Malt Whiskey Price: $60
Whiskey Del Bac Dorado American Single Malt Whiskey Review: Tasting Notes
Eye: Brand new pennies.
Nose: Light smokiness, clearly mesquite but not intense. Sweet smoke. The stonefruit so present in the Classic is muted here, focused more on grilled fruit than the fresh acidity.
Palate: The peppery part of the Classic profile comes through immediately, as does a stronger, more familiar Whiskey Del Bac house malt character. The mesquite is light and sweet, not woody or oaky, and just a bit smoky. Smoke coats but doesn’t overtake. Mouthfeel is prickly, the mesquite coating with a touch of root beer and black licorice, turning creamy on the chew.
Finish: After a wildly different nose, the palate and finish are more reminiscent of the Classic. The mesquite remains and lasts on a long, long finish felt from the tip of my tongue to my throat.
Overall: I like the inclusion of the mesquite, and it’s distinct from other mesquite-smoked whiskies, but i’m not sure it’s used as effectively to highlight the core Classic profile off of which it builds.
Final Rating: 6.6
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary
8 | Excellent | Exceptional
7 | Great | Well above average
6 | Very Good | Better than average
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary
4 | Has promise but needs work
1-3 | Let’s have a conversation
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