Rossville Union 2022 Barrel Proof Rye
In 2021, MGP, the largest producer of rye in the US, made headlines for rebranding - kind of. MGP would remain MGP, but brands such as Rossville Union and George Remus would now come from their renamed distillery: Ross & Squibb.
Ross & Squibb is a double nod to history: George Ross founded the distillery in Lawrenceburg, Indiana in 1847 on the banks of the Ohio River and above a large limestone aquifer where MGP’s main distillery remains today. The Squibb Distillery was founded nearby 22 years later (in 1869) and was purchased by George Remus, “king of the bootleggers” in 1921.
The dividing line comes down to the brands. If you - a group, a store, a company, etc. - are purchasing whiskey to sell under your own brand, you are still buying the bourbon, rye, corn whiskey, or blend from MGP. The in-house brands, however, are now under the Ross & Squibb Distillery banner. After 175 years, who’s to argue against a little facelift, right?
Rossville Union Rye was introduced in 2018 at an easy-drinking 94 proof. Incredibly, despite then-MGP Distillery’s (formerly known under many names including Seagram’s and Lawrenceburg Distillery) mastery and dominance of rye production in the US, Rossville Union was their first in-house rye product bottled under their own label.
When David Whitmer, Master Blender at MGP joined the Whiskey Ring Podcast, the MGP-to-Ross & Squibb transition was just underway. David made clear many things, but the most relevant to this development was this: from its founding in 1847, through every name change and ownership takeover, this distillery was designed almost exclusively to supply other brands, other people’s whiskey needs. The idea of bottling their own bourbon (George Remus Bourbon) and rye (Rossville Union Rye) was unfathomable as recently as a decade ago, when MGP acquired the distillery.
As always, though, MGP - err, Ross & Squibb - was quietly ahead of the curve. With brand after brand buying barrels of rye (and bourbon, but that’s for another writeup), clearly their rye was in high demand. Whether it was the barely-legal 51% rye, the 95% rye, or anything in between including blends, Ross & Squibb rye had become the standard by which others were judged. Kentucky might have Sazerac and Thomas Handy, Michter’s and more; Indiana rye remained king.
Perhaps the only thing less-recognized about Ross & Squibb was their skill in blending. First off, to produce such volumes of consumable whiskey while maintaining quality is a tall order. Ask any distiller of any size - uniformity from batch to batch is one of the hardest challenges to achieve. NDPs like Barrell, Nashville Barrel Co., Good Times, and countless others may have had single barrels, but the larger blends were, in my opinion, even more impressive.
With that, we come back to Rossville Union Rye. The first version released was at 94 proof and listed at 5 and 6 years old - not 5 to 6 years, a small but notable distinction. It was not any single recipe, but a blend of multiple rye mashbills meant to achieve the chosen flavor profile: dried cherries. As VinePair points out in their story about Rossville from 2019, “The sturdy, semi-sweet backbone means it will shine in classic rye cocktails like Manhattans, Boulevardiers, and Sazeracs.” From 159 barrels came the first batch of MGP’s own rye, and thus Rossville Union Rye was born.
I’ll be honest - I wasn’t a huge fan of the two Rossville Unions I’ve had in the past. They were both single barrels at 94 proof (or thereabouts) and thus may not have represented the core profile, but I felt it was a bit watery, lacking the “sturdy backbone” VinePair mentioned. When it comes to MGP/Ross & Squibb rye, though, I’ll always give it another chance.
This year’s release - the 2022 Barrel Proof - is light-years ahead of those two single barrels. Age-stated at 7 years old and bottled at 117.2 proof (58.6% ABV), this is the Ross & Squibb I expect. Plus, at $69.99 MSRP, it’s an easy competitor with the sourced blends and single barrels.
According to the press release, this year’s blend brings together 82 barrels, translating to 3,000 6-pack cases (18,000 bottles), equaling about 219.5 bottles per barrel, right in the sweet spot for both flavor and price. It’s a beautiful blend showcasing each of MGP’s rye mashbills in turn: the baking spice and sweet herb from the 95/5, the floral aromas and baked vanilla from the 51/45/6, and a solid, malty backbone from the lesser-known 51% rye/49% barley malt recipe. The “medley of straight-rye mash bills” as Ross & Squibb calls it demonstrates their blending skill and the quality of their rye in every way.
I’ve already been on a rye kick recently, and this bottle has shoved me deeper down the rabbit hole. In the absolute best way. There are other Rossville Union products, and I may or may not like them as much, but this bottle will be a mainstay on my shelf for sure.
Thank you to Ross & Squibb Distillery for providing this bottle with no editorial strings attached.
Rossville Union 2022 Barrel Proof Rye Whiskey: Specs
Classification: Blend of Straight Rye Whiskies
Origin: Ross & Squibb Distillery
Mashbill: Blend of Ross & Squibb Rye Mashbills
Proof: 117.2 (58.6% ABV)
Age: 7 Years Old
Location: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Rossville Union 2022 Barrel Proof Rye Whiskey Price: $69.99
Rossville Union 2022 Barrel Proof Rye Whiskey Review: Tasting Notes
Eye: Perfect amber. Thin, syrupy rims, teardrops on thin legs.
Nose: Intense - sweet herbs, woody stems, black pepper, amped up 95/5 at first before turning creamy. Minimal proof on the nose. Strong peach/nectarine notes, like a nectar or even an extract.
Palate: Potent and peppery on the tip of my tongue, immediately followed by peach nectar, grape candies, toasted honey, and tarragon. Sweetness balanced nicely by the proof and creamy oak. Mouthfeel is medium-to-filling, spicy on the tongue from both black pepper and the oak. Elevates the darker honey notes into an earl gray tea.
Finish: Long, reminiscent even more of earl gray tea with Manuka honey. Black pepper fades as the creamy oak takes the reins.
Overall: My biggest complaint about Rossville Union in the past has been the proof and age not being where they need to be. This bottle resolves every complaint I’ve had. It’s an excellent Indiana rye in every way, and once again is the standard by which rye blends will be measured. Go grab a bottle. Now.
Final Rating: 7.9
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Old Label Batch 4 or 2, Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)
8 | Excellent | Exceptional (Stagg Jr. Batch 10, Highland Park Single Barrels)
7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)
6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)
4 | Has promise but needs work
1-3 | Let’s have a conversation
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