Doc Swinson's Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Pineau De Charentes Casks
Anyone ever tried Pineau des Charentes? Anyone know how to pronounce it?
Best I can do is this: pee-noh day shah-rent. Do with that what you will.
ANYWAY - last year, I got to try Doc Swinson’s Mind, Body, and Soul trio, where they took the three finishing casks in their Doc Swinson’s Triple Cask and separated them out for people to try. Besides being delicious, it showed the thought process behind having each of these finishes as part of the equation.
It was also an early preview that Doc Swinson’s could skillfully finish bourbon, not just rye.
If you’ve read my reviews and listened to the podcast, you know I’m often skeptical and even dismissive of finished bourbons. Too many are poorly done, over-finishing or under-finishing, not to mention the ridiculous custom finishes that are more about being flashy than making a drinkable product.
Bourbon, or more accurately corn distillate, is thinner and less flavorful than rye or barley. It’s arguably more oily, but that fat can’t carry a flavor that isn’t there. I’ve tried too many bourbons that were finished - some by truly well-respected blenders and producers - where the finish blew out the bourbon, leaving a tasty, high-proof wine but losing the bourbon entirely. The same can happen to other whiskies, of course, but bourbon in particular is susceptible to being lost in a finish.
In this case, the Pineau des Charentes being a semi-fortified, cognac-style wine both helps and hinders the cause.
Pineau is an AOC-designated product limited to France’s Cognac region. Grapes are harvested in late summer/early fall (around September), with the white grapes sent right to pressing and the red grapes allowed to macerate for a bit for color. Once the grape juice is pressed, the winemaker adds cognac eau-de-vie (cognac under two years old) to the juice in about a 4:1 mix, enough to bring the alcohol up to approximately 15% and stop fermentation. The eau-de-vie is usually one year old and from the previous year’s harvest.
Then, it’s time to barrel. White Pineau des Charentes ages for at least 18 months, 12 of which must be spent in the barrel (can be longer, of course, but that’s the minimum). Red Pineau is aged for at least 12 months, 8 of which must be in the barrel, and is often aged longer than that. Finally, it must be bottled in its home region due to the AOC designation.
Where does this fit in the wine-to-brandy spectrum? Closer to the wine side. In reality, Pineau des Charentes is unfermented grape must (read: grape juice) fortified with young cognac. Technically this is called a vin de liqueur, though you probably will find this in the fortified wine section sooner than anything else. It’s a fascinating product, and not one I’d tried before this inspired me to do so.
On the positive side, the brightness lent by fresh grapes and apples keeps the palate fresh and fruity. The mild oak from the Pineau is also just enough to provide backbone without being overtly tannic or creamy.
On the negative, the Pineau is a powerful flavor. I love it, but it needed just a few weeks shorter. It doesn’t completely blow out the bourbon, but it doesn’t always let it shine, either. The bourbon is most apparent at the finish, where the new charred oak, vanilla, and baking spices emerge following the Pineau’s mellowing.
Ultimately, this comes off as more experimental than fully successful. As far as I know, a Pineau des Charentes finish has never been done before, so there’s definitely some props given simply for trying it. And who’s to say this is the last one we’ll see. I hope Doc Swinson’s tries it again, taking what they’ve learned in this process and fine tuning for the next round. And if they don’t, guess what - this is still quite delicious.
Thank you to Doc Swinson’s for providing this sample for review purposes without restriction.
Doc Swinson's Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Pineau De Charentes Casks: Specs
Classification: Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Finished
Origin: MGP, Doc Swinson’s
Mashbill: Blend of MGP Bourbon Mashbills
Proof: 111.1 (55.55% ABV)
Age: NAS
Location: Distilled and Aged in Indiana, Finished in California
Doc Swinson's Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Pineau De Charentes Casks Price: $84.99
Doc Swinson's Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Pineau De Charentes Casks Review: Tasting Notes
Eye: Golden blossom honey. Medium, staid rims, no droplets or legs.
Nose: White grape juice leaning into a young Sauternes. Honey on oak bread, slightly musty. Hint of proof, applewood after a rainstorm. Golden apple juice, a little oaky and not too sweet.
Palate: The golden apple and wine-soaked sultanas blast into the palate with mid-tongue oak and a stonefruit medley in the corners and underside of my mouth. Explosive flavor. Oak builds around the entire palate, apple crumb ice cream and oaked Sauternes. A bit of lemon zest. Mouthfeel is medium-to-full, the oak building progressively.
Finish: The oak climaxes here, cascading over the tongue and palate in a wave. The bourbon underneath shines here with the oak to bring it forward, adding dark brown sugar and baking spice.
Overall: I love this as a finish, and it’s an explosion of flavor. My only concern is that the bourbon is overwhelmed about half the time. When it’s balanced, it’s fantastic. When not, it’s a delicious finish but lacking the bourbon underneath.
Final Rating: 6.7
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary
8 | Excellent | Exceptional
7 | Great | Well above average
6 | Very Good | Better than average
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary
4 | Has promise but needs work
1-3 | Let’s have a conversation
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