Compass Box Hedonism Blended Grain Scotch Whisky
Hedonism: noun, from Greek (hedone meaning pleasure) and the English proactive suffix -ism, used to create a noun from a verb. Definition: the pursuit of pleasure; sensual self-indulgence. In philosophy: the ethical theory that pleasure (in the sense of the satisfaction of desires) is the highest good and proper aim of human life.
I’ve always thought of hedonism in the negative, prioritizing pleasure to the utmost at the expense of other needs and wants, but that’s not really the case. It’s less extreme than that. Deciding to take a walk during lunch rather than eating at your desk is hedonism. Stopping to smell the roses is hedonism. Going on the trip you want to go on because it’s a good thing for you to do, that’s hedonism.
And I’m all for it.
When John Glaser started Compass Box back in 2000, his version of hedonism was blending whisky. His origins lay in the wine world, but he had spent several years with what is now Diageo and some of that time specifically on the Johnnie Walker blends. He saw how Dr. Jim Beveridge and his teams built blends that were shipped worldwide and would taste the same anywhere you had it. He saw the value of grain whisky, the oft-ignored (and often older) child of the Scotch whisky scene, particularly as the single malt revolution reached new peak after new peak.
Hedonism was John’s and Compass Box’s first product. Just two casks, blended from stocks at least ten years old each from Cambus and Cameronbridge Distilleries, came together in first-fill ex-bourbon casks. Cambus and Cameronbridge are/were both Diageo-owned distilleries famous for pumping out tremendous volumes of grain whiskies to fill the various blends in the portfolio (Johnnie Walker blends almost always have large percentages of grain whisky in them - not a bad thing!)
Single malts, blended malts, and blended whiskies (including both malt and grain whiskies in them) were aplenty. A blended grain whisky? Rare, if at all present, in the late 90s and 2000s.
I wrote earlier that grain whiskies are both oft-ignored and often older than the single malts for which Scotland is now famous. There are many, many reasons for that, more than can be discussed here without totally losing focus. For this writeup, keep these two things in mind:
grain whisky is cheaper, made most often from corn or wheat, whereas malt whisky is made exclusively from barley;
because its grains are usually aged in second-fill, third-fill, or refill casks, they take much longer to mature. Age in this case is rarely below ten years and is closer to 20-30, the whisky needing that much time to draw flavor from the casks and lose their harsher edges.
Grain whiskies were used to add body, age and mild flavor to whisky blends, but not to be the star; that was always the malt whisky/whiskies involved. No one was peating grain whisky or aging grain whisky in sherry casks; that was always for the malt.
Nowadays, in 2023, it’s easier to find grain whiskies bottled on their own. Independent bottlers regularly have 20-30+-year-old bottles of Cambus, Cameronbridge, North British, Port Dundas, Invergordon, Strathclyde, and more of the previously ignored grain-only distilleries in Scotland. And that, for whisky-lovers, is wonderful.
For Compass Box, everything started with those two casks worth of Hedonism. When asking questions of a brand, I put a lot of emphasis on the “why,” the motive(s) behind putting one whisky out before another or focusing on one type over another. For John, the answer here was simple: this project, this experiment, represented his hedonistic desires. Through Hedonism, he could show grain whisky’s value. Through Hedonism, he could challenge the hegemony of single malts without detracting from their much-needed sales strength.
Through Hedonsim, John Glaser could put his baby on the map.
Two decades after it launched, Hedonism remains the core of Compass Box’s core range. It is to Compass Box what Elijah Craig is to Heaven Hill, what Buffalo Trace Bourbon is to Sazerac, what Jameson is to Midleton.
That being said…maybe those comparisons aren’t quite right. Those examples are supposed to be the same year after year, the reliable workhorses you can pick up anywhere or buy at any bar and have it taste the same. Compass Box’s philosophy is based on sourcing, finding the best of what is available and making an even better sum.
Over time, that also means availability will change. Not every batch of Hedonism is the same, and Compass Box is open about that - you can even find the make-up on their website based on the batch number. Hedonism is the core of a brand, and yet it changes. The fundamental pillar of a nearly quarter-century-old brand is, at its core, flexible. It seeks a consistent purpose, not a consistent profile.
Try a few different batches, if you can. Understand what a blended grain whisky can be. Make it one of your own hedonisms, as I have made it one of mine.
Try this first as you explore Compass Box’s ever-growing history and footprint. You may like it, you may not, but as you go on your own whisky journey, it’ll help you understand how a passion can become an reality, and how a brand whose founder was once called the “enfant terrible” of Scotch whisky is still creating new, hedonistic legacies with every release.
Most of all, embrace your hedonism. Enjoy the simple pleasures.
Compass Box Hedonism Blended Grain Scotch Whisky: Specs
Classification: Blended Grain Scotch Whisky
Batch Origin: Cameronbridge, North British, Port Dundas, and Invergordon (for Breakdown, See Below)
Mashbill: 100% Grain Whisky
Proof: 86 (43% ABV)
Age: NAS
Location: Scotland
Compass Box Hedonism Blended Grain Scotch Whisky Price: $75
Compass Box Hedonism Blended Grain Scotch Whisky: Tasting Notes
Eye: Golden hay. Thin rims and slow, beaded legs.
Nose: Sweet vanilla custard, a bit of oak around the edges. Preserved lemon, with a savory acidity. Gentle grain whiskies, lots of bourbon cask richness and light orchard fruit sweetness.
Palate: Subtle at first, the grain whisky mild with the barest proof on the tip of my tongue. Creme brulee and creme Anglaise, creamy and sweet with vanilla softly leading. Mouthfeel is silky, a bit thin but maintains its creaminess and the mild peppery bite on the front of my tongue, drying as it extends.
Finish: Short side of medium, the vanilla fades from extract into puff pastry and baked goods, like elephant ears and pate a choux.
Overall: Simple, elegant. It’s not the most complex from Compass Box but it’s not designed to be. It does exactly what it should - show you how grain whiskies can evolve and create a greater sum than the parts. I personally prefer the Felicitas version, but this is a must-try to get to know the brand and its ideals.
Final Rating: 6.6
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary
8 | Excellent | Exceptional
7 | Great | Well above average
6 | Very Good | Better than average
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary
4 | Has promise but needs work
1-3 | Let’s have a conversation
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