Ardbeg - my next stop on the tour of Islay. This one’s a biggie, the first or second name that most casual drinkers will associate with Islay, peat, and smoke. The classic green bottle (not unique, but still…), and that self-imposed superlative: “The Ultimate”. So, will this be peaty and thin? Smoky and spicy? Mouthfilling and medicinal?

A bit of all, in fact. A little medicinal peat gives way to woodsmoke and spicy pepper, freshening lemon zest, and a creamy mouthfeel that feels and drinks above its 92 proof. It was an enjoyable pour that I’d put in my top half of the Islay entry-level bottlings.

The man behind the machinations is Dr. Bill Lumsden, Head of Distilling and Whisky Creation. Lumsden also heads up whisky and distillation at Speyside’s Glenmorangie, covering the northern and southern tips of Scotland in one mind. He’s experimented with many variations over the years, but it’s hard to imagine messing with this one too much. Sometimes, classics are classics for a reason, and in its 206th year, there’s no reason for Ardbeg to change its classic.

As you’ll see, it earns a solid 6.7 on my scale, a good pour to keep around the house if you want a representative taste of Islay. It’s a bit esoteric to say, but I feel the restraint in this bottle. It showcases the character of Islay - and of Ardbeg more specifically - without losing the malty sweetness and mouthfeel underneath. There’s no hiding behind finishes, extra casks, or marketing trickery. It is what it is: a ten year old single malt from Islay, and it tastes exactly like that.

Everything else you need to know about the liquid inside is on the bottle, too: non chill-filtered, sea spray, and smoky intensity (I’ll hold back on the “immense”, but maybe others feel differently). Located just north of both Laphroaig and Lagavulin on the southern coast of Islay, Ardbeg displays many of the same clear-cut characteristics that make Islay so attractive for peat lovers. The zesty lemon and dark peppercorn will set it apart - Bowmore has its grilled fruits and vegetables, after all, and each must have its profile - and if anything, this makes me quite interested to try more of the Ardbeg lineup than any Islay so far besides Bruichladdich. So maybe it would be more accurate to say this: it’s the most intriguing entry to an Islay distillery using a classic Islay profile. It may not be equal to the hundreds of awards it seems to win each year, but I hope it counts for something!

Ardbeg 10 Year Old Single Malt Whisky: Specs

Classification: Islay Single Malt Whiskey

Origin: Ardbeg Distillery

Mashbill: 100% Malted Barley

Proof: 92 (46% ABV)

Age: 10 Years Old

Location: Islay, Scotland

Ardbeg 10 Year Old Whisky Price: $52

Official Website

Ardbeg 10 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Review: Tasting Notes

Eye: Pale straw and a greenish hue. No rims, droplets all over the glass.

Nose: Lovely sweet saline smoke. A meaty smokehouse on the sea’s edge. Classic Islay, less band-aid/medicinal than Laphroaig, with a cleaner, clearer smoky character.

Palate: Ashy woodsmoke, drying kippers in a peppercorn bath. Spicy oak, more medicinal notes appearing here than on the nose. Relatively spicy for the proof. Mouthfeel is peppery yet creamy, like an au poive sauce on fire. Drying oak and smoke coats the whole palate.

Finish: Lemon zest enters the palate on top of the ashes. Smoked tiny fish and marine salt still evolve on a long finish.

Overall: It’s hard not to compare this to other Islays, so I might as well. This drinks spicy and creamy, both contributing to an above-proof mouthfeel. The lemon works well to open the smoke and craft a new texture in the mouth. Being low on the medicinal notes helps this quite a bit in my eyes, with a clear, clean taste of woodsmoke and vegetation.

Final Rating: 6.7

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Old Label Batch 4 or 2, Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)

8 | Excellent | Exceptional (Stagg Jr. Batch 10, Highland Park Single Barrels)

7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)

6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)

4 | Sub-par | Many things I’d rather have (A.D. Laws Four Grain, Compass Box “Oak Cross”)

3 | Bad | Flawed (Iron Smoke Bourbon, Balcones)

2 | Poor | Forced myself to drink it (Buckshee Bourbon and Rye)

1 | Disgusting | Drain pour (Virginia Distilling Co. Cider Cask)