Sagamore Spirit Reserve Series Calvados Finished Rye Whiskey
When I talked to Raj Bhakta on the podcast, we ended the conversation by talking about finishing American whiskies. The good ones, the ones with promise, and the downright ugly ones.
One point I thought was particularly true was this: between bourbon and rye, the latter takes to finishes far better than the former. Bourbon can be lost in even minimal finishes, but rye has enough punch and basic flavor to stand up to fortified wines, sherries, and, in this case, Calvados.
Calvados is an apple brandy (sometimes with pear) made in northwestern France according to appellation d'origine contrôlée regulations. Apple brandy can be made anywhere, and other regions including the UK, the Mid-Atlantic US, and Pacific Northwestern US are also known for their apple brandies, each with a unique profile. But to be called calvados, it has to be from Normandy, as seen on the map below.
Types vary, of course, but a hallmark of calvados to me is the maturity of the spirit. It’s not spiked apple cider or an apple eau-de-vie (though those do exist), it’s more like an armagnac when compared to brandy writ-large. There’s a depth of flavor, notes that can be bright and acidic without being young or raw.
I love calvados on its own, especially when warmed or at a higher proof. As a finishing cask, though, there are few examples of it with which to compare this pour.
That being said, rye and calvados go beautifully together. Sagamore Spirit hit the mark dead-on. The rye, not quite barely-legal but not super high-rye either, has a lovely peppery punch that holds up to the sweetness of the calvados. The rye sweetness is also tempered by a 101.2 proof and cinnamon and clove notes from the calvados.
The two spirits are both sweet, both spicy, and both delicious. The biggest risk with any finishing is that it’ll either be over-finished, where the underlying spirit is lost, or under-finished, where the finish was too short or too weak to make an impact on the base. This is neither.
Sweet, savory, and deep, this 4-5 year old rye immediately reminded me of an apple pie spiked with some black pepper and more calvados. The apples are caramelizing in butter with extra clove thrown in as oak creaminess from both barrels adds a complex undertone to a velvety, coating mouthfeel.
I continue to be impressed by Sagamore Spirits. I’m sure there will be an iteration or product of theirs I won’t like - nobody’s perfect - but I look forward to trying as many as I can before and after I find it.
Sagamore Spirit Reserve Series Calvados Finished Rye Whiskey: Specs
Classification: Straight Rye Whiskey Finished in Calvados Casks
Origin: Sagamore Spirit and MGP
Mashbill: Undisclosed
Proof: 101.2 (50.6% ABV)
Age: 4-5 Years Old
Location: Maryland
Sagamore Spirit Reserve Series Calvados Finished Rye Whiskey Price: $65
Sagamore Spirit Reserve Series Calvados Finished Rye Whiskey Review: Tasting Notes
Eye: Amber-gold rum. Thin disappearing rims and small, thin droplet legs.
Nose: Warm rye, strong baking spices, especially dried cinnamon sticks. Applewood freshly cut. The rye and calvados are both here, neither dominant. No proof at first, then it hits the nostrils.
Palate: That’s a spicy apple pie, like someone mistakenly swapped a teaspoon of cloves for a tablespoon. Creamy oak all over, a hint of black pepper in the throat. Warm, caramelizing apples grow and last. Mouthfeel is velvety, medium-bodied, a bit spicy on the tongue with more spiced apple pie coming out. Lovely spice for the proof, and the proof feels right where it should be.
Finish: Creaminess covers the finish, putting out the black pepper and cinnamon/clove fire. Long, long finish, lasting several minutes after the last drop.
Overall: Like a spicy apple pie in a glass. The two flavors are a great pairing, with neither dominating. The apple is mature and caramelized, and the rye is sweet and spicy. Proof is right on for both flavor and mouthfeel. Delicious.
Final Rating: 7.6
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Old Label Batch 4 or 2, Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary (GTS, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof B518 and B520)
8 | Excellent | Exceptional (Stagg Jr. Batch 10, Highland Park Single Barrels)
7 | Great | Well above average (Blanton’s Original, Old Weller Antique, Booker’s)
6 | Very Good | Better than average (Four Roses Small Batch Select, Knob Creek 14+ YO Picks)
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary (Elijah Craig Small Batch, Buffalo Trace, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond)
4 | Has promise
1-3 | Let’s have a conversation