Mammoth Distilling Limited Release Northern Rye Whiskey No. 1
Mammoth Distilling, guest on the Whiskey Ring Podcast Episode 67, is not-so-quietly leading the ryevolution.
Between their leadership on reviving Rosen Rye on South Manitou Island to promoting landrace grains and cross-distillery experimentation, there’s little doubt that Mammoth will be one of the most consequential distilleries of this era.
But how is their whiskey?
As it turns out, pretty darn good. They’re not yet putting out a Rosen-only product, and for this release didn’t use Rosen at all. Instead, Wheeler rye takes its place, paired with 15-, 16-, and 17-year-old ryes from Alberta.
Wheeler rye is produced exclusively by Moore Seed Farm in Michigan. As per a 2019 Winter Rye Varietal Study completed by the Northwest Crops & Soil Program, Wheeler has an exceptionally high protein content - at least as compared to the other dozen or so varieties being grown for the study. This high protein content makes for an interesting discussion.
For distilling grains, you generally want less protein content (relative to the enzymes and sugar content) to produce more yield. In short, more starch = more sugar = more yield because there’s more input for the yeast to feed on in the fermentation phase. Protein contents are kept low to maximize carbohydrate proportions. So one can only assume that Wheeler rye produces less alcohol when mashed and fermented (I’m checking this to make sure, but that’s my educated guess).
So why use it? Simple: flavor.
Rye is an incredibly complex and varied grain, and if you’re not distilling simply for maximum yield then you want to let the character of that grain shine through. It’s the same reason you include and disclose what strain of grain you’re using: if you want people to know what it is, then you’re going to use it in such a way as to maximize character presentation in the final product. Yields might be less, but the whiskey is better or at the very least more notable for its flavor. Commodity grain is built to prioritize yield above all else - Mammoth is purposefully doing the opposite.
The older ryes from Alberta are for body and volume, of course - there’s a particular flavor from Alberta, but it’s by no means dominating. The second- and third-fill casks allowed the whiskey to esterify and gain flavor of its own without adding much from the assuredly depleted casks. By adding in a more neutral whiskey (relative, again) to the 14% Wheeler rye in the mashbill, Mammoth allows the Wheeler character to present with a solid foundation upon which it can build.
The blend is also aided by the use of Missouri and Minnesota oak, each giving their own profile. From the Mammoth Distilling website:
One component was distilled from Michigan Wheeler rye and aged in two types of new American oak: Minnesota oak, which has a tighter grain pattern and higher levels of tannins, and Missouri oak, which is softer and higher in lactones that contribute a more traditional sweetness up front.
Minnesota oak will be less familiar to whiskey drinkers, but that Missouri/Ozark oak will give the classic butter, vanilla, and coconut notes for which American whiskey is famous.
For me, the Wheeler gave off unmistakable Bazooka Joe bubble gum notes. Think of the individually wrapped pieces, coated in that thin layer of cornstarch or whatever they used to keep it from sticking to the paper. It’s a childhood scent memory that can’t be anything else.
I do find myself wanting more of the Wheeler character, as I’m sure there’s more to it than just the bubble gum. Then again, maybe these proportions were the ones needed to achieve what Mammoth wanted to achieve here. Either way, it’s a bottle worth your time to explore - and at the price point, it won’t put much of a dent.
Thank you to Mammoth Distilling for providing this sample with no strings attached.
Mammoth Distilling Limited Release Northern Rye Whiskey No. 1: Specs
Classification: Rye Whiskey
Origin: Mammoth Distilling
Mashbill: 14% Wheeler Rye, 86% 15-, 16-, and 17-Year-Old Rye from Alberta, Canada (Aged in Second- and Third-Fill American Casks)
Proof: 100 (50% ABV)
Age: 4+ Years
Location: Michigan
Mammoth Distilling Limited Release Northern Rye Whiskey No. 1 Price: $74.99
Mammoth Distilling Limited Release Northern Rye Whiskey No. 1 Review: Tasting Notes
Eye: Green iced tea. Thick but drooping rims and rivulet legs without droplets.
Nose: Bazooka Joe bubble gum, powdered sugar and all. Sweet wintermint and a clear, if unfamiliar, rye character. Toasted honey. Not overly complex, but convincing that there’s something new here.
Palate: Brief burst of spice, the Bazooka gum following. White pepper on the tip of my tongue with an absinthe-like dry anise. Mint verging on menthol. Apple-forward, though not dominant. Mouthfee is prickly, oily, and coating on the front half of the tongue. Lots of tobacco, numbing Szechuan peppercorn, mild tannins, and a singular rye flavor.
Finish: The bubble gum and apple combo is intriguing and lasts for a few seconds before giving way to the numbing sensation again. Mint is in the upper throat as the bubble gum remains. Medium length.
Overall: There’s a unique flavor here that undoubtedly comes from the Wheeler rye. The apple notes from Alberta are unmistakable and supplement in both flavor and body. I do want to see more of the Wheeler character, though. On the other hand, the high percentage of Alberta rye helped me in reviewing other whiskies incorporating this component
Final Rating: 7.9
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary
8 | Excellent | Exceptional
7 | Great | Well above average
6 | Very Good | Better than average
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary
4 | Has promise but needs work
1-3 | Let’s have a conversation
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