Ironclad Distillery The Old Kernel Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Ironclad Distillery The Old Kernel Straight Bourbon Whiskey Bottle (Image Courtesy of Ironcladdistillery.com)
In speaking with Owen King at Ironclad Distillery, it becomes clear just how into corn he is.
He’s tasted literally dozens of varieties to get the profiles he wants, including the basics (yellow dent) and ones like blue corn, bloody butcher, and any number of heritage or heirloom strains at distilleries such as Balcones, Bardstown Bourbon Co., Jeptha Creed, Kings County, and more. Just as each product has a purposefully chosen mashbill, each that has corn in the recipe has a purposefully chosen strain, and Owen wasn’t going to stop until he was satisfied he’d found the ones he wanted.
For this - The Old Kernel - Ironclad uses Pungo Creek Mills heirloom Indian corn, farmed by Bill Savage. The variety has been grown on the Eastern Shore of Virginia since the Civil War, but only in small quantities and on a couple of farms. Savage, in fact, originally bought it to grow as chicken feed, not for human consumption (and even less likely for bourbon).
According to Ironclad, only when he was grinding it did he smell a unique sweetness, which led him to try what I call the Samuels method: want to test a grain? Bake (corn)bread. It must’ve been deliciously sweet on its own, since Ironclad claims it could stand up against any Southerner’s best - and you know Southerners don’t abide sugar added to their cornbread.
Once distilled, Old Kernel goes into 30 gallon barrels and is aged for about 3 years, at which point Owen feels they’re aged long enough to lose the rough edges but gain the wood flavors without going over the line. We should be seeing a new batch out just before Thanksgiving this year (2022).
In addition to Old Kernel, Owen has been playing with Hickory King Corn (he had mashed a batch earlier in the day when we spoke) and the earliest batches of that are about 2.5 years away (Owen is aiming for at least 4 years for this line), but the way he spoke about it makes me think it’ll be quite delicious and, if nothing else, unique - even from its equally unique Old Kernel cousin.
There’s lots to be excited about from Ironclad, and their focus is and always has been on corn, so there’s one part to keep an eye on. Then again, they’re also playing with Abruzzi rye…
Thank you to Ironclad Distillery for providing this sample for review purposes without restriction.
Ironclad Distillery The Old Kernel Straight Bourbon Whiskey: Specs
Classification: Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Origin: Ironclad Distillery
Mashbill: To Come
Proof: 100 (50% ABV)
Age: 3 Years
Location: Newport News, Virginia
Ironclad Distillery The Old Kernel Straight Bourbon Whiskey Price: $76.99
Ironclad Distillery The Old Kernel Straight Bourbon Whiskey Review: Tasting Notes
Eye: Light maple syrup. Medium rims and splotchy droplets.
Nose: Unusual…like lemon pepper popcorn. Warm and spiced. Turns savory and fatty, too, smelling like multicolor corn and some butter. No proof or oak on the nose.
Palate: Warm, pie crust butteriness. Roasted corn all over the palate with both savory and sweet baking spices circulating. Beaituflly showcases the corn. Mouthfeel is silky, medium-bodied, oak pepper and lemon zest candied and tart. Upscale Juicy Fruit gum builds with the chew.
Finish: Long, heavily coating, lemon custard with rye spices and cinnamon. Reminds me of Thanksgiving.
Overall: For me, a turning point in Ironclad’s line. This has such a clear identity from the corn type that it’s impossible not to appreciate. The grain is highlighted while being fruity, savory, and at the right proof (though I wouldn’t mind trying it out of the barrel!).
Final Rating: 7.1
10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close
9 | Incredible | Extraordinary
8 | Excellent | Exceptional
7 | Great | Well above average
6 | Very Good | Better than average
5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary
4 | Has promise but needs work
1-3 | Let’s have a conversation
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